Haida Gwaii was never really on our travel wish list.
We have seen photos of this remote corner of British Columbia somewhere — perhaps in a magazine — and thought it was beautiful. But that was about it. Once we learned that getting there was not cheap, it became one of those places that looked amazing but stayed in the “maybe someday” category.
Then Karen, a friend who works occasionally in Haida Gwaii as a travel nurse started inviting us. She shared stories about the island, the lifestyle, and what makes it so different from anywhere else. It was an invitation from someone who knew the place and wanted to share it with us. We may not have another opportunity like this.
Before we left Ontario, though, we had plenty of worries. Could we handle the hikes? Would our shoes and clothing be enough? What would the weather be like? Would the remoteness feel exciting or overwhelming? And there was another unknown: we were travelling with another friend who was much older, and this would be our first trip together. Would we all travel well together?
I had no idea what to expect. I only knew that we were heading somewhere remote, beautiful, and unlike any place we had visited before.
Our Haida Gwaii adventure started very early.
We left home at 2:30 AM to catch our 8:00 AM flight from Toronto to Vancouver. After landing in Vancouver, we had a three-hour layover before catching our next flight — Vancouver to Sandspit. At this point, it still felt like a normal travel day. We were simply making our way to our destination.
Then we landed in Sandspit. The first thing that surprised me was the airport. It was a small one.
Karen immediately reminded us we need to hurry and we could not quite understand why there was such urgency. It was not like we were at a busy airport where we had to fight through crowds. Then we found out why. We have a 20 minute drive from Sandspit to the Alliford Bay ferry landing, missing the ferry means waiting for the next one, 20 minutes ferry ride to Skidegate landing at Graham Island. Then an hour and 15 minutes drive to Massett where we will stay. Suddenly, the rush made sense.
Looking back, the journey itself was already giving us a preview of Haida Gwaii — a place where distance, timing, and nature shape the rhythm of life. As we travelled across the island, my first impression was of a place covered in greenery. From the plane, I had seen an island filled with forests and natural beauty.
But it was only when we arrived at our B&B that it truly sank in. We were far away. Really far away.
This was not just another destination. This was Haida Gwaii.
